Methods of Joining Anchor Chain

So how do you go about joining anchor chain? Maybe you feel that you haven't got enough of it to deploy the minimum recommended scope of four times the depth, and don't want to shell out for a whole new length? Or perhaps you don't want all that weight right up in the bows of the boat and prefer to attach a length of rope to the end of the chain?

But if you do go for all-chain you're going to need a stretchy rope snubber to absorb any shock loads that would otherwise be applied to the anchor, but what's the best way of attaching that to the chain?

There are even several options available to you for joining the anchor chain to the anchor - and it would definitely be a mistake forget to attach the other end to the boat!

CarabinerDon't be tempted to use one of these—a carabiner—as, apart from strength considerations, it will jam in the anchor windlass

Joining Two Lengths of Anchor Chain Together

Clearly it's best to have a single, unbroken length of anchor chain rather than one that is comprised of two lengths joined together. 

Your first inclination may be to use a shackle for joining anchor chain, but you'll find that the rounded ends of a shackle of the same strength as the chain will be too big to go through a link.

OK, you could perhaps use two shackles back-to-back so that it's just the shackle pin that goes through the link.

You'd have to mouse the pins with seizing wire, which could be really bad news if you're hauling it in by hand.

If you're using an anchor windlass - powered or manual - the shackle approach most definitely isn't going to work.

The solution? Use a proprietary connecting link from a respected supplier.

Split link chain connectorSplit link chain connector, available from GS Products

They're supplied as a two-part component and require that the rivets on one part are properly peened over into the countersunk holes on the other. Don't use a stainless connector and a mild steel chain (or vice-versa) for obvious reasons)

Once you've assured yourself that the connector is the same size and grade as the chain, a ball-peen (or peening) hammer is the way to go, after which the join is said to be as strong as the chain itself. If the connector and the chain aren't compatible it will become all too apparent at the gypsy on the anchor windlass.

If you're unsure if the rivets are properly peened over, or if there is any detectable movement between the two halves of the connecting link, then you'll have a weak point in the chain. Cut it off, and try again with new one.

Joining Anchor Chain to Rope

One way of joining 3-strand nylon rope to your anchor chain is by splicing a hard eye in the end of the rope and shackling it to the chain. This is absolutely fine if you're prepared to haul in by hand but obviously not if you're using an anchor windlass.

To create a rope-chain join that will pass through a windlass you can use one of two methods:

  1. A back splice to a single link, or
  2. An elongated splice through several links of the chain

And this article describes exactly how to do them both.

Incidentally, I do not recommend that you follow the splice-testing approach set out in the article!

Connecting the Anchor Chain to the Anchor

Once again, a shackle is ideal for this provided it is properly moused with seizing wire - not a a cable tie.

A problem can arise though when, on retrieving the anchor, it arrives at the bow roller the wrong way up - which, in full compliance with Murphy's Law, is what usually happens.

You'll now have to lift the anchor clear of the bow roller to enable it to stow at some risk to your fingers and back muscles.

An alternative approach is to use a two-way (double) anchor swivel which allows gravity to align the anchor such that it will self-stow in the stemhead assembly.

anchor swivel2-way anchor swivel

Attaching a Rope Snubber to the Anchor Chain

There's not much wrong with tying the snubber to the chain with a rolling hitch - tied properly it shouldn't slip. But most cruisers will happily spent a few dollars on a chain-hook to avoid the over-the-bow contortions the rolling hitch approach requires. 

chain hookChain hook

You do need to keep tension on the snubber line as you deploy it to prevent it from falling off which, given half a chance, it undoubtedly will. Conversely, on retrieving the anchor - when you want it to fall off - it won't.

Blame that Irishman again...

Joining Anchor Chain to the Boat

You wouldn't be the first cruiser to fail to do this, and watch a thousand-odd dollars worth of chain and anchor vanish irrecoverably over the bow roller.

It doesn't really matter how you do it as long as you do 'do it' - and in such a way that you can detach it in a big hurry if you have to.

With an all-chain rode it's advisable to tie the end of it to a strong-point in the anchor locker (so you can cut or untie it) rather than use a mechanical fixing.

Cruisers' Questions...

Are swivel connectors between the anchor and the chain a good idea?

Swivel connectors can be a good idea—but only when you choose high‑quality, properly rated components and include them as part of a well‑thought‑out anchoring system. Here’s an in‑depth look at their advantages and potential pitfalls:

Advantages of Swivel Connectors

  • Free Rotation & Alignment: A two‑way (or double) swivel allows the anchor to rotate freely. This self‑aligning feature helps the anchor settle into the proper orientation, reducing the chance it’ll get twisted or misaligned when retrieving the chain. This is especially useful if you use an anchor windlass, where a fixed connection can force the swivel-up of the anchor and create stowage challenges.
  • Reduced Stress on Hardware: By allowing movement, a swivel connector can relieve some of the rotational stress that otherwise builds up along the chain, the windlass, and other connection points. This helps in minimizing wear and tear on the system, prolonging component life when compared to a rigid connection.
  • Easier Handling Under Variable Conditions: In rough or shifting sea conditions, a swivel enables a more natural response to the forces acting on the anchor. This can lead to fewer abrupt chain tensions and helps keep the rigging working smoothly.

Potential Concerns and Best Practices

  • Rating and Quality: Not all swivel connectors are created equal. If a connector isn’t rated for the full axial load of your chain or for the dynamic conditions encountered at anchor, it may become a weak link in your setup. Make sure to use components approved by recognized marine authorities (e.g., U.S. Coast Guard guidelines or classification society standards).
  • Maintenance and Inspection: Swivels introduce an extra moving part that must be periodically inspected. Corrosion, debris, and lack of lubrication can cause the swivel to seize, which undermines its purpose. Routine maintenance—including cleaning and relubrication—is essential.
  • Installation Considerations: Even the best swivel can fail if it isn’t installed correctly. Ensure that the swivel is integrated into the system with proper fittings and that it’s aligned with the chain’s load path. Sometimes, professional installation or a detailed review of manufacturer instructions is a good investment.
  • Cost vs. Benefit: While adding a swivel adds expense and another point to inspect, many sailors find that the benefits—particularly smoother anchor handling and reduced hardware strain—outweigh the extra cost. Evaluate it in the context of your rig size, typical conditions, and overall anchoring style.

What Does BBB Chain Mean?

"BBB chain" usually refers to a classification or grade of chain that meets specific strength and construction standards. The label indicates its tensile strength, durability, and performance under load. Since manufacturers may use slightly different designations, it’s best to consult the specs to ensure a BBB-rated chain meets your anchoring criteria.

How Do I Choose the Right Anchor for My Sailboat?

Choosing an anchor isn’t one-size-fits-all. You need to consider:

  • Boat Size & Design: Your sailboat’s weight and hull shape determine how force is transmitted when you’re offshore in variable conditions.
  • Bottom Conditions: Soft bottoms (sand/mud) favour fluke-type anchors (like Danforth or CQR), while rocky or weedy bottoms might require plow or specialty designs.
  • Weather & Sea Conditions: Strong winds, currents, or choppy seas demand an anchor with proven holding power and a design that digs in well.

Research manufacturers’ specifications and test feedback from sailors in similar waters. This way, you match the anchor’s design to your boat’s requirements and the conditions you most frequently encounter.

Can I Use Multiple Anchors or Employ Tandem Anchoring, and If So, How?

Yes, multiple anchors can be used for increased stability:

  • Tandem Anchoring: Deploy two anchors in a “V” or spread pattern from opposite sides of the bow. This allows the anchors to work against each other, stabilizing the vessel even if the wind or current shifts.
  • Deployment Considerations: Ensure each anchor has adequate rode and the proper scope. They should not interfere with each other’s setting.
  • Practice: Test tandem anchoring in calm conditions first, ensuring you’re confident in your ability to manage the load distribution.

This technique is especially useful in variable conditions or when anchoring in larger, exposed areas.

More about Anchors and Anchoring...

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